Linie pentru somn mare, cu fir textil

Materiale folosite : - fir textil aproximativ 70 cm .
- trei agrafe rapide .
- cca 15 cm nichelina sau sarma otelita 0,5 mm .
- doua tuburi pvc . unul de cca 5 - 6 cm , altul cca 2 cm .
- doua plute de 2 - 2,5 g fiecare , ovoide sau sferice .
In foto am folosit plute color . Recomand insa ca acestea sa fie inchise la culoare .

Pe firul textil cu agrafe la ambele capete insiram plutele si tubul scurt de pvc . Acestea, conectate intre ele, culiseaza de-a lungul firului. Sarma, indoita la jumatate din lungime, o introducem in tubul lung de pvc. In bucla sarmei, la unul din capetele tubului atasam agrafa pentru carlig . Celelalte doua capete le atasam prin rasucire de tubul scurt dintre cele doua plute.

LEGAREA CARLIGELOR DE PESCUIT

Toti pescarii de pluta, fie ei de plici, varga, rubeziana sau bat cu inele, iarna si primavara, stiu ca trebuie sa foloseasca monturi cat mai fine. De asemenea cei care au pescuit la oblete, rosioara, au fost pusi in situatia de a lega carlige cat mai mici. Pana pe la 12-14 mai merge. Cum merge insa de la 16 in sus, cand incepe distractia. Daca mai ai si degetelele groase, ala esti. Noroc cu o scula de legat care face toti banii si careia eu ai spun LEGATORUL. Este vorba de asa ceva ...

Am ales pentru demonstratie un carlig de 12, fir de 0.20 , pentru ca acestea sa fie vizibile in poza

Prima data se pune carligul in deschiderea legatorului strangandu-se apoi de rotita astfel incat sa ramana doar tija afara. Se strange destul de ferm, fara a exagera, astfel incat carligul sa nu aibe mobilitate

Apoi se impinge catelul metalic peste rotita de strangere, pe partea opusa celor doua "carlige curbate". Spre varf se afla cel lung , iar spre maner, cel mai scurt

Acum, firul(putin tensionat)care vine direct din fata legatorului se trece peste cele doua extremitati ale catelului, fiind intors inainte paralel cu directia de unde vine, dupa cum urmeaza

Incepem apoi rasucirea legatorului,astfel incat firul intors sa prinda atat tija carligului cat si firul direct. Rasucirea se face de 7-8 ori. Functie de tija se dau pana la 10 ture

Acum intoarcem capatul liber pe dupa tija cea lunga din varf a catelului, dupa care apasam catelul inapoi in pozitia de la inceput

Slabim putin rotita de strangere si scoatem tragand de firul principal carligul gata legat

Rezultatul final, asta este! Sper sa va fi ajutat cu ceva

Montura Drachkovitch - Montura pentru salau, stiuca .

Montura Drachkovitch, este o montura cu pestisor mort, folosita cu precadere pentru pescuitul salaului . Aceasta mai poate fi folosita cu succes si atunci cand pescuim la stiuca .

Plumbul sferic este pozitionat excentric, avand libertate de miscare, ceea ce asigura pestisorului mort atasat, o evolutie cat se poate de naturala. Pentru prinderea pestisorului, se introduce tija elastica prin gura, apoi se infing cele doua ancore lateral, de o parte si de alta. Tripla finala se fixeaza pe coada pestisorului, apoi prin ajustarea lungimii strunei de kevlar, i se asigura pestisorului o forma usor curbata . Acest lucru, face ca evolutia monturii in apa sa fie sinuoasa, fiind foarte atractiva pentru pestii vizati.

Montura Drachkovitch se foloseste in combinatie cu o lanseta rapida, de 2.40-2.70, avand o puterea corespunzatoare pentru montura folosita. Modul de pescuit este apropiat celui la jig-uri.

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Resistance-free running rig for big perch (Salau)

This is THE rig to use if you are targeting specimen perch. Although it’s quite simple to tie, the components you will need are quite specialised but can be bought from all good tackle shops.

A Run Ring is a must because this provides a large diameter bore through which the line passes, therefore resistance is kept to a minimum. Big perch will drop a legered bait if they feel the slightest resistance.

The Run Ring will need covering with some silicone tubing to prevent tangles, and then a snap link swivel can be clipped to the Run Ring so that any weight of lead can be used quickly and easily.

The best hooklength lines should be soft, supple and camouflaged – either a braid or clear mono is ideal. Length needs to be between 2ft and 4ft.

One of the best baits for big perch is a couple of lobworms, so this means that the hook will need to be quite large. A size 4 wide gape will be ideal, preferably barbed so that the worms remain on the hook.

A Use a Run Ring followed by a bead and a swivel. The Run Ring reduces the amount of resistance to the taking fish.
B The size and weight of lead ought to suit the distance that you intend casting. You could switch the lead for a feeder crammed with red maggots or chopped worms if you wish.
C It’s best to incorporate a snap link swivel into this rig so you can change the lead quickly at any stage during the session.
D Use a large swivel and a very strong knot to lock on your hooklength as there’s every chance you may encounter a large tench, carp or bream fishing with this rig.
E Hooklengths need to be strong and short – 2ft to 4ft is ideal and between 4lb and 8lb is best.
F When fishing with two lobworms hook them in the saddle with a wide gape size 4 hook.
G Chop and change your baits between using whole lobworms and broken lobworms to find out which bait the fish respond to best.

Perch Rig (Montura Salau)

Groundbait feeder rig for river barbel, chub and bream

This simple yet very effective feeder fishing rig is perfect for catching river barbel, chub and bream. It’s easy to make and can be used in deep sluggish rivers through to fairly shallow and swift flowing rivers.

The beauty of this rig is that it can be used to catch all of our larger river species, providing you use an appropriate bait and loosefeed to tempt them.

All you’ll need to tie this rig is a variety of different weight of feeders, some eyed hooks, some hooklength braid, strong mainline, a snap link swivel and a buffer bead.

Buffer beads are small rubberised sleeves that fit over half of a swivel. They can be found at all good specialist fishing tackle stores and are ideal for stopping your swivel from hitting knots and potentially weakening them.

The most important part – and often the most technical – is choosing the right weight of feeder. The feeder must be an open end type. Cage feeders simply release their load of groundbait too quickly, whereas open end feeders hold on to the groundbait until the feeder hits the river bed.

Getting the right weight of feeder requires a few experimental casts. Pick a feeder that you think might offer enough weight to hold still in the flow, cast it out and see if the feeder remains static on the bottom. Ideally you should choose a feeder that only just holds still in the flow – one that will easily dislodge and begin rolling if a fish were to pick up the bait and nudge the feeder out of position.

Two of the best baits for this rig are either large drilled halibut pellets or fishmeal boilies – bream, barbel and chub love them. But you could use maggots, worms, casters, sweetcorn, anything you wish.

The feed you put inside the feeder ought to match the hookbait you’re using. If you decide to use a halibut pellet or a fishmeal boilie on a hair rig, you will do best to use a fishmeal groundbait and pellets in your feeder.

HOW TO TIE THIS RIG

A – Larger baits like pellets and boilies should be hair-rigged. You’ll need a strong eyed hook for this and the best way to tie a hair rig is to use the knotless knot technique here.
If you intend to use more conventional baits, just choose a strong hook of a size to suit your chosen bait.

B – It’s your choice whether you decide to use a mono or a braid hooklength. If you decide to use a mono hooklength pick one that will cope with a barbel, so 6-8lb breaking strain will be ideal. If you opt for braid, chose a 12lb breaking strain.

C – Your loosefeed should match your hookbait. Fishmeal groundbait and pellets is an ideal match for boilies and drilled halibut pellets. This combination scores well for river specimens.

D – Your open end feeder should have enough weight in the lead to just hold still in the river’s flow.

E – Use a quick-release snap link swivel to attach the feeder, and a buffer bead to attach your hooklength.

F – Your mainline needs to be strong enough to cope with a big barbel, so choose 8lb or 10lb breaking strain.

Snag-free link legering rig for big barbel and chub

Barbel love to hide under or tight to streamer weed, sunken branches, tree roots and other submerged obstacles. That makes catching them really difficult.

Static leger rigs may seem to be the answer, but often they aren’t. A mistimed or an inaccurate cast might see the heavy rig land bang in the middle of the obstruction – not only snagging up, but also disturbing the fish in the swim.

If you’re overly tentative with your cast, your rig might land too far away and the barbel won’t want to move out from the sanctuary of the feature to take the bait, especially in daylight hours.

These are the times when a neat link leger rig really comes into its own.

A correctly balanced link leger not only allows the angler to reach the desired distance upon the cast, but it also allows you to let the bait trip gently downstream.

No longer will you have to accurately cast your rig onto an area the size of a dinner plate. With a link leger you can cast upstream of the fish-holding spot and gradually work it downstream right next to or even underneath the feature.

The key to a successful link leger rig is to use the right amount of weight upon the link. Basically you’ll need to squeeze enough split shot onto the link to ensure that the rig sinks quickly and just holds the bottom when the rod is placed upon the rests.

If you leave the rod alone, the rig will remain in place until a fish takes the bait or a large twig or strand of weed hits the mainline as it is swept downstream.

But if you gently lift the rod tip to dislodge the rig it will rise up off he bottom and be swept downstream a little closer to the snag. Now place the rods in the rest ready to detect your next bite.

You can slowly and steadily repeat this until the rig lies exactly where you want it to be.

But this link leger rig offers something a little unique. The split shot can quite easily fall off the link if they become snagged, therefore this rig is very fish-friendly and safe. It’s the perfect rig to use when you’re fishing very tight to snags.

HOW TO TIE A LINK LEGER RIG

You don’t need a huge array of tackle to create this rig. You will need some large split shot, your hook, your chosen hooklength material (braid or mono), strong mainline (around 6-8lb is ideal), a strong swivel and a swivel bead.

A – Your hook needs to match the species and the size of bait you are using. When fishing for barbel, use a very strong hook

B – Your hooklength needs to be strong enough to cope with the fight of a barbel. If you decide to use mono, opt for lines in the region of 6-10lb breaking strain. If you decide to use braid to camouflage it against the venue bottom, use 12lb breaking strain.

C – The best method of connecting your mainline to hooklength is to use a swivel.

D – A swivel bead is the perfect accessory for attaching the leger link. Thread your mainline through the bead end and thread 6ins of strong line through the swivel. Fold this line over and lock the two lengths of line together using enough split shot to hold the rig onto the bottom. The beauty of this style of creating a link leger is that the split shot can quite easily fall off the link if it becomes snagged, leaving you free to play the fish back to the net.

E – Your mainline needs to be reliable and strong. 6-10lb breaking strain is ideal for most barbel fishing situations.

Barbel Rigs (Monturi mreana)

One of Dave Burr's barbel rigs

Following a forum thread about running barbel rigs Dave Burr reveals what he uses.

As there are always newcomers to barbel fishing and of course, FishingMagic, the question of which rig to use is frequently asked. In an attempt to help the new guys and to get them on their way to fishing with an effective and above all safe rig, I have tied a few up and will describe them here. All of the examples here have been tied with fluorocarbon but you can use any hooklink material such as braid, mono, coated braid, etc.
Before you put any rig in the water ask yourself the questions, 'Does it do what I want it to do?' And 'Can a fish free itself from it in the event of a break-off?'

Rig one is a straightforward rig that has accounted for thousands of barbel and which is probably all you will need for your first season or two.

Rig 1

Your first requirement is a good hook. There are plenty of excellent patterns on the market, I suggest you pick one or two from recommendation and see how you get on with them, you will soon find a pattern that catches for you and thereby will give you the all important confidence.

On this rig the hooklength ends with a swivel, above that on the main line, is a couple of soft rubber beads to protect the knot from the link swivel. They will also give a degree of 'stand-off' which will help to reduce the number of tangles; trust me, if your line twists around your swivel and a barbel runs, it will crack the line off in a nano-second.

This rig can be used with any size of hooklength from three inches to three foot.

Easy isn't it?

Rig 2

On the second rig the rubber beads have been replaced with a tail rubber which has the same effect but which covers the swivel and gives a more rigid stand-off, this is far more important when feeder fishing. The choice between either beads or tail rubber is entirely personal one, try them both then see which one suits your fishing the best.

Rig 3

The third example is the rig that I have been using for the last season or so, it is simple but highly effective. Instead of a swivel at the end of the hooklength I use a quick-link , the hooklink is attached to that by simple figure of eight loop and enables a rapid change of hooklink should it be needed. The main line is tied to the link and a Korda anti-tangle sleeve is pulled over the top of it. To attach the lead I simply take the link from a link swivel (these can be bought separately in packets of ten) and fold it over the sleeve. The critical part of this is to make sure that the link only just grips the sleeve and will pull off easily. If you ram it on farther up the sleeve it will grip the main line and should you break off above the rig you will have created a tether rig that a barbel will not be able to rid itself from and it will then surely die.

So, I will repeat, make sure that the sleeve can still run on the line with the link attached, it may take slight effort to move it but at least it will slide. You now have a rig that is quick and simple to tie, offers terrific stand-off qualities and is semi-fixed and highly effective at hooking fish.

You will note that none of my rigs incorporate a stop bead or float rubber above the lead, I do not think that it is necessary as there is sufficient pressure from the fish pulling the line and lead to set a hook. Any rig with a back stop runs the risk of it becoming a tether rig whereas my rig, even if the lead clip is set too hard, still give a fish a chance to rid itself of it.

There are other rigs, some are more complicated and all will take fish but if you tie up any of those demonstrated here you will take all the barbel you want. Just remember, use sharp hooks and tie good knots, if you have any doubts about any of your knots don't hesitate, cut them off and tie them again, that few seconds could save you from months of regret when you lose a biggie.

And last of all I will remind you of the comment at the beginning. Before you put any rig in the water ask yourself the questions, 'Does it do what I want it to do?' And 'Can a fish free itself from it in the event of a break off?'

Pike Safe & Simple Rigs (Monturi simple pentru Stiuca)

Although pike anglers are always dreaming up rigs to deal with specific situations or to overcome particular problems there are a couple of simple rigs that are easy to set up with the most basic of tackle, and are both successful and safe for the pike. They will also work well in most circumstances!

Neither of these rigs involves the use of specialised tackle, and because they incorporate floats you will have no need for expensive bite alarms to detect takes - provided you keep a close watch on the floats!

The first rig (A) is a float leger rig for use with deadbaits. Set the rig up as shown below, with the float slightly overdepth. As soon as the float starts to move off or goes under you should strike.

With all rigs ensure that your main line is at least fifteen pounds in breaking strain, and that your wire traces are well made from wire of at least 30lb.

The second rig (B) is a paternoster which can be used with dead or live baits. With the paternoster link tied to the eye of the upper treble (as shown below) a livebait cannot swim up and around the mainline - and so the risks of a pike biting through the line when it takes the bait are almost nil.

By removing the float, stop knot and two of the beads from the float leger rig you have a straight leger rig (C). In very windy conditions this will hold your bait in position more efficiently, as a float can be dragged by the waves. The leger weight can be increased to two, or even three ounces, with no loss of sensitivity of the rig as it is free running. If the bottom you are fishing over is snaggy add a short weak link of nylon between the swivel and the bomb. Always use a reliable drop off indicator to alert you that a pike has picked up your bait when you are using a rig without a float.

Pike Fishing - TACKLE TIPS

Tactics and methods have evolved over the years with many methods having gone through phases of development and re development, one such method that has seen its fair share is the Livebait Paternoster rig. The rig illustrated below constitutes what a safe version, providing all the points are followed.

A "Safe" Paternoster Rig.

If incorrectly set up the rig can be inefficient and possibly harmful to your quarry. As illustrated this paternoster is for fishing with the float visible at the surface, it can be fished sunken, it does however then require an additional method of bite indication, not just visual but preferably audible to alert you to a bite. This does obviously increase the cost and as such we recommend the use of this rig on the surface, at least until you gain some experience of how it works to your satisfaction. From there on you are at liberty to use it as you wish.

With the correct size of bait, a roach of approx. 5 to 6 inches in length, this is a sure fire pike catcher, if you have located the fish and are sure they cannot be caught by any other type of bait or method, e.g. legered deadbait or free roving livebait, or are lying in an area that would be dangerous to allow a free roving bait to wander into, with the risk of snagging your tackle, then give this method a try, don't become a one method angler though!

Pike rig (Montura Stiuca)

Gravel Pits and How Best To Tackle Them.

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Piking in the Fens is very rewarding. See below Nige's Fenland personal best 38lb4oz caught on a Masterline XTC 11' 2 1/4 test curve Fen River rod.

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Get the right lure to suit your fishing. These are some of Nige's favourites.

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Drifter fishing is an excellent way to catch big pike and also to learn about the water you are fishing.

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Use some of these tips and hints on a river near you.

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The paternoster rig is an ideal method for catching pike.

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Making a trace

The XTC boat rod is ideal for trolling.

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Every Conceivable Carp Rig !

The Hinge Rig

Snake Bite Rig

Critically Balanced Rig

The Snowman Rig

Nail
Rig

PopupRigOnMud

‘Hinged, Pop-up, Stiff rig’

Pop-Up Rig

Helikopter-Rig

Amnesia D-rig

Scorpio-rig

The Lay-on Rig

Gravel Rigs

Roughorshallow Rig

Shocker Rig

Silt-rig

Wonderlijn

Bait Bag